Help needed! I planted some annual flowers and some Azalea bush's?

The flowers look like they are trying for dear life to survive and the Azalea bush%26#039;s too. On of the bush%26#039;s is 3/4 dead and the others are kind of browning too. I planted them all in the ground and made sure they were right for the Sun they would get out in the yard. I have mulch all around all of them and Water the every day just about.





Why are they dying and what can I do?

Help needed! I planted some annual flowers and some Azalea bush%26#039;s?
I don%26#039;t know where you live, but I lived in Southern Calif. for 40 yrs (concrete %26amp; rocks) and now live north of Dallas (wet, sticky clay)... I%26#039;ve always had to put decent soil into the hole with the plants (I use Miracle-Gro), and a handful of plant fertilizer. In Texas, I throw a little pea gravel in the bottom too, so it drains better...... so, you might need to amend your soil. Azaleas like acid, so try some Miracle-Gro for acid-loving plants too (gardenias, hydrangeas too)
Reply:Planting out shocks the system.


Did you shade them from sunlight when you planted them?


Did you protect them from early morning frosts?


(don%26#039;t know where you are, but here in Blighty you will still get early morning frosts).





Azaleas like acid soils.


Are you watering too much? (Feel the soil, is it sodden?)


Check for pests, ants seem to love my azaleas.
Reply:Azaleas should be in dappled shade, not full sun. Not knowing what type of flowers you grew I can%26#039;t help with that.
Reply:are Southern signature plants in South Carolina landscapes. Numerous azalea species, hybrids and cultivars, either native to this area or hailing from the Orient, can be grown here, with bloom times ranging from early spring to midsummer. The newly released Encore™ series of azaleas offer blooms twice a year, in the spring and again in the fall. Azaleas are classified in the genus Rhododendron.





In order for azaleas to have healthy, vigorous growth, it is important to understand the impact of cultural and environmental factors on this plant. Choosing the proper planting location and using good planting methods and cultural practices are critical in providing the best conditions for optimum plant growth. For more information on the beginning steps to a healthy azalea, refer to Azalea Planting, HGIC 1058.





EXPOSURE





Azaleas prefer cool, partially shaded sites, such as the filtered shade of pine trees. Azaleas planted beneath hardwoods with shallower roots must compete with these trees for nutrients and water. If placed in the right location, however, they can do well on these sites. Although some varieties tolerate sun better than others, they all prefer an area that is not exposed to long periods of hot full sun and drying winds. Flowers last longer when plants are partially shaded. Azaleas exposed to full sun are more susceptible to lace bugs. Early morning sun exposure after a hard freeze may cause cold injury. Do not plant azaleas in heavy shade as poor flowering and weak growth result.





SOIL





Azaleas are shallow-rooted plants that are easily damaged by excessive soil moisture. They grow best in acid (4.5 to 6.0 pH), well-drained, organic soils. Before planting, have the soil tested and adjust the pH according to soil test results.





Azaleas located in poorly drained sites do not receive the oxygen required for healthy growth and often develop root rot diseases. When planting in poorly drained areas, add composted pine bark to as large an area as possible, and plant the root ball higher than ground level.





MULCHING





A 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch is very important. It conserves soil moisture, maintains soil temperature and helps discourage weeds. There are many materials available suitable for mulching. Pine straw, composted pine bark and leaves work very well, enriching the soil with organic matter as they decompose. Keep the mulch a couple of inches away from the main stem to keep the bark dry and extend it beyond the outermost branches.





WATERING





Azaleas are shallow-rooted plants and require irrigation during dry periods. This is especially true of those planted in the spring. Azaleas planted in warm weather in sandy soils may require watering of the root mass twice a week during the first year.





To determine when to water, pull back a small area of mulch near the base of the plant and check the moisture level of the root ball and surrounding soil. If the top few inches of soil feels dry, wet the soil deeply, to at least a depth of 6 to 8 inches.





Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation to slowly water the base of the plants. Overhead irrigation may promote disease.





Azaleas in waterlogged soils will decline and are susceptible to root rot diseases. It is important to reach a balance of regular, deep watering and good drainage to promote a healthy plant.





FERTILIZING





Azaleas have low nutritional requirements compared to other shrubs. A soil amended with organic matter prior to planting followed by a mulch of compost, shredded leaves, pine straw or other organic material will usually provide sufficient nutrients for adequate growth.





Before fertilizing, have a specific reason for doing so, such as increasing growth rate or correcting a nutrient deficiency. A nutrient deficiency can be exhibited by a number of symptoms including stunted growth, smaller than normal leaves, light green to yellowish leaf color and early leaf drop. Be aware that these same symptoms can be caused by other problems such as heavily compacted soil; stresses from insects, disease organisms and weeds; and excessively wet or dry soil. Fertilization will not correct those problems, so be certain that you know the cause of the symptoms and treat them appropriately.





Having your soil tested is one way to determine if applying fertilizer will benefit your azaleas. Information on soil testing is available in HGIC 1652, Soil Testing.





Most fertilizer recommendations are based on nitrogen, which is an important element in plant growth and often the one that is most likely deficient in the soil. Apply 1 pound of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet of root spread area. Up to 2 pounds can be applied with a slow-release fertilizer. In the absence of a soil test use a complete fertilizer with a ratio of 3:1:2 or 3:1:3, such as 12-4-8 or 15-5-15.





Apply fertilizer to the azalea’s root zone area (area occupied by nutrient and water-absorbing roots) which can extend beyond the drip line or outer-most branches. According to research findings, a shrub’s roots can extend three times the distance from its center to the outermost branches. So, if the distance from the center of the azalea to the outer-most branches is 2 feet, the feeder roots can extend an additional 4 feet beyond the drip line. To visualize the area to be fertilized, imagine the azalea as the center point of a circle with a 6-foot radius (the %26quot;root radius%26quot;). Trace the outer edge of the root zone area.





Since most azalea roots are located in the top foot of soil, surface application of the fertilizer is adequate. Evenly broadcast the fertilizer with a handheld spreader or a rotary or cyclone spreader over the root zone area. Sweep any fertilizer off the branches and water afterwards to make the nutrients available to the roots



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